So I figured it would be the perfect project to make a new mixer barrel. I designed the barrel in openscad, and made it hollow to save on time and material. I uploaded the CAD files to thingiverse in case anyone ever wants to do something similar, and because their CAD pictures look great:
I printed the barrel in two pieces and added some marbles inside to jiggle around.
That's not the best picture, but it turned out great and actually spins!
I learned a lot about 3D printing, especially from many failed prints. Here are some of my tips:
- Occasionally I got errors when I imported an .stl file. Usually they were fixed by netfabb's online tool (or fixing my openscad source)
- I originally assumed slic3r would pick the best print orientation, but it just prints from z=0 and up. So you need to design your .stl file accordingly.
- Lots of helpful info here.
- I had lots of trouble with adhesion to the kapton when I first started. Sounds like the melted ABS in acetone slurry is the way to go, but I didn't try that.
- I had good results when I flipped the plate over and printed on the bare glass, using hair spray to help stick. I removed the glass to clean with acetone (nail polish remover), then sprayed hair spray on it, clipped it back down and heated to print.
- The spool kept getting bound up on almost every print. Usually because the plastic would get trapped on the inside and tighten up instead of unwinding. I didn't figure out how to fix this.
- I did successfully restart a print that failed halfway through (instructions here).
- I couldn't really tell anything from the bed calibration test print. It looked fine to me, but when I checked the level with the single piece of paper method, it seemed way off
- air quality
- I was surprised at how smelly the printer is. After a couple hours of sitting next to it, my lungs were not happy. If I ever need to use one again, I'll have to set up better ventilation.